girls clothes |
- The Surprising—and Sometimes Troubling—History of Tennis Clothes - TIME
- Back-to-School Shopping 2019: The Best Clothing for Girls and Boys - Forbes
- Fighting the Degrading and Dangerous Treatment of Menstruating Migrant Girls - Ms. Magazine
| The Surprising—and Sometimes Troubling—History of Tennis Clothes - TIME Posted: 05 Sep 2019 09:03 AM PDT  Every Grand Slam season, tennis players' sartorial choices regularly make headlines. During this year's U.S. Open, Serena Williams' short black bodysuit has taken the stage, widely admired by her fans as a daring choice after the backlash she received from French tennis officials on her full-body black catsuit at last year's French Open. Tennis style has a place off the court too, having seeped its way into mainstream style stalwarts like the Stan Smith tennis sneaker by Adidas and more exclusive, trend-setting fashion like Gucci's tennis-heavy Pre-Fall 2019 collection. From the sport's earliest days to its top moments of controversy, tennis has long been influenced by fashion — and has influenced it in turn, as Serena Williams' stylist Kesha McLeod points out. "What we see Serena wearing today is what we want to wear in everyday life. The power of her style goes far beyond the court," McLeod tells TIME. The racket sport's connection to fashion is deeply rooted. Lawn tennis, created in part as a response to women's enthusiasm for croquet, was in the 1870s a new, more active sport that welcomed women, unlike the popular male-only version of the time, called court tennis. Since men and women could play lawn tennis alongside one another, the sport was at times viewed as a way to meet romantic partners. "Flirting was common. It was one of the few pastimes that brought both sexes together," explains Kevin Jones, curator at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising Museum in Los Angeles. Along with the upper-middle-class and upper-class society nature of the sport in its early days, the potential for a meet-cute established an early precedent of taking appearance and style into consideration while playing tennis, to the detriment of practicality or comfort. Men wore blazers and flannel trousers, while women wore corsets and long kilt skirts. As the sport evolved, a more uniform but still formal style of dress started to form for women. The tennis look drew from lawn dresses, which were often worn to garden parties, racecourses and other outdoor leisure events. These all-white, cotton and linen garments featured lace inserts and elaborate embroidery patterns. They eventually transitioned from being worn by spectators to being worn by players on the court. The prominence of these dresses shows that the focus of tennis attire was still on fashion, not performance, Jones says.  Men in suits and women in long dresses playing lawn tennis. Library of Congress—Corbis/VCG via Getty Images One of the earliest moments that this form-over-function mindset was challenged was at the 1887 Wimbledon's Ladies Singles Championship. Tennis star Charlotte Dod, known as Lottie, was only 15 the first time she won a Wimbledon title; because of her youth, she was able to wear clothing that was not as restricting. Ditching the tight corset, full-length dress and multi-layered gown, she wore calf-length garb more similar to a school uniform than a tennis uniform at the time. Many older opponents argued that her attire gave her an unfair advantage by allowing her to move in ways and at speeds that the traditional tennis gear could not, bringing to the sport, for one of the first times, the question of designing garments for mobility and agility. This concept was furthered by the iconoclastic Suzanne Lenglen, who was the center of another Wimbledon fashion scandal in 1919 when she wore a calf-length skirt, short sleeves and a floppy hat. Despite the backlash from the press, which called her indecent, Lenglen went on to win the tournament. She often wore a tulle wrap around her head while playing, called the "Lenglen bandeau," which caught on to become a defining look of the Roaring Twenties. But it wasn't just what she was wearing or her winning streak that made Lenglen such an influential figure. Jones considers her one of the first athletes to become a celebrity outside of the world of sports. This is because "she didn't just play. She performed. She came up with the most unique moves. She would jump all over the court, never trying to be prim and proper. She would do anything it took to get the ball over the net—contorting her body, sprinting across the court, and diving for the ball," he says. This gained her the adoration of many fans in and outside of tennis. Lenglen set an early model for female athletes to become star personalities through style and individuality.  Suzanne Lenglen winning her first championship at Wimbledon in 1919. Print Collector—Print Collector/Getty Images Meanwhile, throughout the late '20s and '30s, men's tennis fashion was starting to change as well. René Lacoste, a star tennis player at the time, designed and sported a new polo shirt that featured short sleeves, an unstarched collar and a long tail, straying from the long-sleeved, button-up polos of the time. The unstarched collar could be popped up, protecting players' necks from the sun, and the long tail meant the shirt could be tucked in more easily. Nicknamed "The Alligator" because of his affinity for a crocodile-leather suitcase, Lacoste embellished his polos with the crocodile logo, helping pioneer the idea of branded clothing. Later, in the '50s, Fred Perry furthered Lacoste's invention by adding a stitched logo rather than one that was ironed on. When the look was picked up by the mods — a fashion, music and party-focused subculture mostly made up of working-class youths in London — the polo shirt became a staple for the generation and a symbol of late '50s modernism.  Mods wearing polo shirts at The Scene club in Soho, London, circa 1964. David Redfern—Redferns/Getty Images By this point in time, while tennis clubs and tournaments widely welcomed women, they tried to remain exclusive in other ways. Exclusivity was always a running theme in the history of tennis; in her book When the Girls Came Out to Play: The Birth of American Sportswear, Patricia Campbell points out an 1881 excerpt from Outing magazine that assured women who played tennis that they would be "in the company of persons in whose society [they are] accustomed to move," never attracting the attention of the lower classes. The rule that tennis players must wear all white, which started during the Victorian era with influence from cricket attire and lawn dresses and a desire to keep players cool to minimize improper sweat stains, became another way to keep the sport an upper-middle-class and upper-class activity. "The white symbolizes purity and virtue, reflecting the self-perceptions of the class from which tennis derived most of its players," explains Robert J. Lake, author of A Social History of Tennis in Britain and Routledge Handbook of Tennis: History, Culture and Politics. The rule played a part in keeping people who might not have had the same look or values out of tennis clubs. In the later half of the 20th century, all of the Grand Slam tournaments except for Wimbledon moved away from their all-white rules mainly for commercial purposes, according to Lake. "With the advent of color television, it was considered a novel idea for players to wear color. It attracted more viewers to the sport."  Senator John Kennedy and his fiancee Jacqueline Bouvier playing tennis in 1953. Bettmann—Bettmann Archive/Getty Images Then came Ted Tinling, a Wimbledon host, tennis player and fashion designer, who had been banned from the tournament for dressing player Gussie Moran in a pair of ruffled undershorts visible below a short dress in 1949. In the '70s, Lake says, women realized that in order to compete with men in terms of prize money, they had to do more than just play well; they had to look the part as well. Tinling wanted to contribute his talents as a designer. He worked with Billie Jean King during the 1973 Battle of the Sexes match and with the rest of the Original Nine, the group of rebellious female professional tennis players who fought for equal rights in the sport. Tinling worked to make them look more glamorous, in order to bring more viewers to the women's tennis circuit. However, Lake notes, this tactic also encouraged fans to think of female tennis players as objects of sexual desire. As they continue to compete with men for TV coverage and endorsements, "the highly gendered culture of the sport has pushed many female players to dress in more provocative ways, or at least in ways that are ostensibly feminine," Lake says.  English fashion designer Ted Tinling (1910 - 1990, center), with tennis players wearing his Dacron fashions at the Royal Garden Hotel, Kensington, London, June 22, 1973. Left to right: Virginia Wade of Britain in a dress with shark's teeth details, Evonne Goolagong of Australia in a dress with a sweetheart neckline and orange and yellow inset panels, Rosemary Casals of the USA in a dress with butterfly motifs, and Billie Jean King of the USA in a dress with a diagonal motif in lilac. Michael Webb—Getty Images Though men are called out for sartorial missteps as well — like Roger Federer being told to change out of his orange-soled Nike shoes in 2013's Wimbledon tournament — Meredith Richards, a librarian at the International Tennis Hall of Fame Museum, argues that women are still the main target of this type of scrutiny. Richards points to an umpire at last year's U.S. Open issuing Alizé Cornet a fine for switching her top to the right way around after she realized it was worn backwards, even though she was wearing a sports bra underneath. "Think of how often men change shirts on court and no one seems to take note," says Richards. (Male tennis players are allowed to take off their shirts on court, but female players are not, according to certain interpretations of the rules.) So what does tennis style mean today? "Confidence and self-expression," says McLeod. Williams' style tells us an entire story apart from her game, the stylist adds: "Serena is who she is. She's taken charge of this through her wardrobe. It's all about letting other people know that you can wear a tutu that's cute and dainty but still be taken seriously and as the powerful person you really are." And though tennis style has been widely used to reinforce gender boundaries, McLeod argues that Williams blurs these boundaries, pointing to this year's short black bodysuit and her choices to wear what she wants.  Serena Williams wearing a tennis outfit designed by Virgil Abloh and designed in conjunction with Nike, in the second round of the U.S. Open at the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Centre on Aug. 28, 2018 in New York City. TPN—Getty Images Meanwhile, Williams has also stepped into the streetwear world by wearing Nike x Off-White on the court and by collaborating with the brand's founder Virgil Abloh on the "Queen" Collection. And this latest development is fitting, notes Kevin Jones: As long as tennis has existed, the sport's leading female figures have been the quintessential modern women of their times. "Whatever they are wearing," he says, "is the most modern, most efficient and most fashionable style at the time."  |
| Back-to-School Shopping 2019: The Best Clothing for Girls and Boys - Forbes Posted: 14 Aug 2019 12:00 AM PDT This story was written in collaboration with Forbes Finds. Forbes Finds covers products we think you'll love. Featured products are independently selected and linked to for your convenience. If you buy something using a link on this page, Forbes may receive a small share of that sale.  The book on back-to-school fashion for younger students. GettyGet your little one geared up for the back-to-school season and pick up the best essentials for your child's wardrobe. Whatever their style might be, your children can kick off the new school year in style—while bringing home good grades, of course. Here are the best clothes for boys and girls for the new school year: Gap Kids Cargo Jacket Gap As autumn approaches, transitional layering will help your child ease into the changing seasons and weather. This cargo jacket from the Gap Kids is the ideal item to layer over your back-to-school outfit. It has a straight and relaxed fit and features a button front with a drawcord at the waist. There is a roll-up hood great for rainy days or cooler weather. It has large flap cargo pockets in the front to stow away snacks or other items that your child wants to keep close.  H&M H&M Leopard Faux Fur JacketChannel a chic dose of coziness in this leopard print jacket from H&M Kids. Its soft faux fur will keep your little one warm. This nubby coat features a detachable hood with cute ear appliqués. It has a zippered front with a heart-shaped zipper and front pocket. The printed coat is versatile and can be worn with jeans or dresses.  Levi's Levi's Denim JacketA jean jacket is one of those quintessential purchases that will last through the years for adults—but kids love them, too. This denim trucker jacket from Levi's is perfect to wear on its own or layered with a puffer vest. This jacket features non-stretch denim, front snap closures and has snap-flap chest pockets.  Old Navy Old Navy Puffer VestPuffer vests are a great layering option for kids' fall outfits. Functional and cozy they are ideal for in-between seasons and a great addition to any closet as colder weather approaches. This vest from Old Navy features a Frost-Free shell with a plush fleece lining. It also includes a name tag label on the inside for your little one. You know why.  Stone Island Junior Stone Island Junior Wool SweaterLight sweaters are great for brisk fall days and can keep kids cozy during lazy weekends when school's out. Lightweight and perfect for seasonal layering this sweater from Stone Island Junior can easily take your child from the fall through winter—and right into spring. This logo patch jumper is 100% wool and machine washable.  Amazon Cubcoats HoodieThis hoodie from Cubcoats does double duty as a stuffed toy unicorn. Great for little ones who are still transitioning into school or are the new kid in the class, it is perfect to tote in their backpack for those moments where they need security. This 2-in-1 hoodie is a cute concept for kids and offers a range of fun options including Spider-Man and Minnie Mouse as well as Star Wars characters. The best part is that buying one of the hoodies will help low-income children as the brand has partnered with Baby2baby.  Hanes Hanes T-ShirtA fashion staple for the little James Dean in your life, nothing beats the simplicity and versatility of a classic white tee. This shirt from Hanes can be easily tucked into skirts or jeans. These T-shirts also get softer and better with washing.  Cat & Jack Cat & Jack Dress ShirtYour child can dress them a classic dress shirt with a pair of jeans. Or they can smarten up their look with crisp chinos. This Cat & Jack shirt can be worn under a sweater or sweatshirt and has a round-cut cuff.  Zara Zara Denim JumpsuitJumpsuits are a fun and versatile addition to any closet—especially for kids. The belted long-sleeve denim worker dungarees from Zara comes in a soft wash, and features a lapel collar with front snap-button fastening with front pockets. From classes to after-school events and activities and playdates, jumpsuits are a must-have especially if your little one also likes rompers.  Ralph Lauren Ralph Lauren Camouflage JoggersWhether it's off to class or off-duty weekend wear, jogger trousers are a stylish touch to your child's wardrobe. These camouflage jogger pants from Ralph Lauren feature an elastic waist with an interior drawstring. It has a zip fly with a snap closure and seam detailing. Lightweight and durable, these joggers are 100% cotton and machine washable.  |
| Fighting the Degrading and Dangerous Treatment of Menstruating Migrant Girls - Ms. Magazine Posted: 05 Sep 2019 04:15 PM PDT It was only a matter of time before President Donald Trump made headlines again over periods. Just four years ago, in August 2015, he accused then–Fox News correspondent Megyn Kelly after the first presidential debate of having "blood coming out of her wherever." The charge landed the once-taboo topic of menstruation smack in the middle of election coverage—and on the front page of nearly every major national and small-town newspaper in between. It even generated its own viral hashtag, #PeriodsAreNotAnInsult. Now, 19 states filed a lawsuit in California this week against the Trump administration for the indefinite detention of and conditions endured by migrant children and their families. Among the charges of hygiene deprivation for children detained at the border—including the alleged lack of basics like toothpaste and bars of soap—is insufficient access to menstrual products and care. Testimony in the lawsuit included that: "Girl(s) at the facility…were each given one sanitary pad per day. Although the guards knew they had their periods, they were not offered showers or a change of clothes, even when the other girl visibly bled through her pants."  For over a year now, the news of babies torn from parents has been devastating to absorb. And the detailed accounts of children's days and nights in detention—of stench and filth, teens tending to toddlers, preschoolers appearing solo in court—have revealed the situation to be even worse. But the latest blaring headline—"Trump Administration Leaves Menstruating Migrant Girls 'Bleeding Through' Underwear at Detention Centres, Lawsuit Claims"—was an unexpected gut punch. Such cruelty and degradation are simply unfathomable. Period shame is real, harmful and exists in every corner of the world. A global cohort of activists is working to counter that stigma and the damage it does. Here in the U.S., it has been dubbed the fight for menstrual equity. Access to products—as well as toilets, education and safe and accurate care—is an essential part of that agenda. And, encouragingly, considerable progress has been made. For example, in an effort to ensure that menstruation doesn't hinder students' ability to succeed in school, four U.S. states recently passed laws requiring that pads and tampons be freely provided in school restrooms. Fourteen states now require a similar provision for incarcerated women—in county jails, state prisons and juvenile detention centers. Even Congress voted to do the same in 2018, passing a bipartisan prison reform package, the FIRST STEP Act that mandates menstrual access in federal correction facilities. (And, yes, Trump signed it into law.) Since 2016, another six states have passed laws exempting menstrual products from sales tax—eliminating the notorious "tampon tax" and making the case that menstrual products should be affordable for all. But at the border right now, there's no solace for young teens who might know little about what's happening to their bodies—yet have to summon the courage to tell a male guard and ask for pads, only to be denied or given too few to matter. Or have to manage their periods in over-crowded rooms where privacy is scant. And aren't even able to shower or wash hands or scrub clean stained underwear. The harm extends beyond all surface cruelty, too. There are serious potential health risks, some fatal, that come from using a pad or tampon for too long, ranging from infection to toxic shock. As a matter of policy, compassion and common sense, menstrual equity should be a no-brainer. But we are far from a nationwide mandate. Which is where the courts come in. And why it is heartening to see this testimony—horrifying as it is—featured as part of the formal court record. For as a matter of law, there are viable, though still untested, arguments to support the case for menstrual equity: namely, that deprivation of basic needs like safe, affordable tampons and pads may amount to a violation of due process, sex-based discrimination under the equal protection clause, or both. Last year, California criminal defense attorney Paula Canny filed a class-action lawsuit in Sacramento arguing that denying free tampons to people held in county jails is unconstitutional. Her action prompted numerous counties to ensure the provision of menstrual products. And a new legal campaign launched this summer—Tax Free. Period.—to mobilize lawyers to challenge the tampon tax in court. Constitutional law scholar and Dean of U.C. Berkeley Law Erwin Chemerinsky made the case for the illegality of the tampon tax in a recent Los Angeles Times op-ed. And the director of Columbia Law School's Center for Gender and Sexuality Law, Katherine Franke, told The New York Times that these legal claims, overall, "highlight a day-to-day way in which women experience discrimination in one of their most basic bodily functions." Fighting to have menstrual equity enshrined into our jurisprudence is a key step toward permanent, meaningful change. And a way to ensure that no one—especially a child in crisis—is shamed or harmed simply because they menstruate. This piece originally appeared in Newsweek. Republished with permission.  |
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